How to grow repair roses on your site
In this article, we will tell you how to properly grow remontant roses, taking into account their biological characteristics.
In addition, we will tell you in detail about this amazing form of the largest, lush and most beautiful roses created at the end of the 17th century in France.
FROM THE HISTORY OF THE APPEARANCE OF REPAIR ROSES
Repaired roses were bred by the best French breeders to decorate royal palaces, parks and winter greenhouses.
Rose is generally considered a symbol of France behind the scenes. No wonder the best species and varieties of the "queen of flowers" were created in this country. Both the famous French perfume and fabulously expensive creams appeared only thanks to the development of French perfumery based on natural rose oil.
Moreover, the best raw materials for all cosmetic products were remontant roses, which will be discussed in our article.
Three hundred years ago, the progenitors of modern roses bloomed for a very short time, and then scientists began to work on a type of rose that could bloom twice in one season. And they succeeded.
Breeders have obtained several varieties, which are powerful bushes with huge (up to 15 cm in diameter) double flowers exuding a strong, wondrous aroma. And they really did bloom twice a season.
There were so many flowers on the bush and they turned out to be so huge and heavy that we had to put props under them so that the bushes would not break.
The first time the buds bloomed in late April - early May, the second - in early - mid-July.
In 1786, after visiting Paris, and seeing stunningly beautiful roses with an unusually strong and pleasant aroma, the Russian Empress Catherine II ordered to plant a greenhouse in Petrodvorets from these unique flowers.
In addition, in the south of Russia, at her behest, a large nursery of remontant roses of several varieties was founded. Unfortunately, during the Great Patriotic War, this nursery was completely destroyed.
REPAIR ROSES: BIOLOGICAL PORTRAIT
As we have already said, remontant roses are tall, spreading bushes, up to 2 m high and powerful thick branches.
Large leaves - very beautiful bright emerald color. Double flowers, up to 16 cm in diameter, have a very beautiful bowl-shaped shape and are distinguished by an amazing sweet and very strong pink aroma.
When the garden of remontant roses blooms, the whole neighborhood within a radius of a little less than a kilometer is filled with an intoxicating and incomparable delicate scent.
How to preserve flowers and roses?
The beautiful flowers are mostly pale pink, bright burgundy and golden white in color. Some varieties are decorated with two or three colors.
Today old varieties have undergone a certain genetic "modernization" and their frost resistance has increased dramatically. And modern remontant roses calmly withstand frosts down to -30 degrees.
The root system of remontant roses is quite deep, which allows the bushes to get moisture and nutrients from the lower layers of the soil. For the same reason, they do not freeze out in winter and tolerate any weather anomalies well.
All these qualities allow the amateur florist to easily grow remontant roses in his garden.
HOW TO GROW REPAIR ROSES CORRECTLY
When to plant. It is best to plant remontant roses in the spring - after May 15-20, when the threat of spring frosts has passed. Over the summer, they will take root securely, grow up and prepare well for the coming winter.
But they will endure the autumn planting just as well (but no later than September 10 - 20: depending on the climate of your region).
Seedlings with ZKS, and these are exactly the ones we have prepared for you, can be planted in summer (but only in cloudy, cool weather).
Place for landing . Repaired roses need bright sunlight throughout the day, otherwise you will not expect a lush, bright bloom from them. Even a weak partial shade does not suit them.
They will not tolerate the close occurrence of groundwater: their powerful roots will begin to rot, and the plants will die. Therefore, do not plant repair roses in the lowlands and in areas flooded by rain and melt water.
In such places, it is better to plant bushes on artificial mounds. These roses (however, like all the others) will grow very well on the southern and southwestern slopes.
Soils . Powerful bushes of repairing roses need enhanced nutrition both during planting and during growth. These roses need light, very fertile, organic-rich, well-drained soils with a neutral reaction of the environment (pH 7.0).
Even weak acidification can lead to the occurrence of diseases and even to the death of remontant roses.
If the soil on your site is clayey, acidic, neutralize it in advance (at least 3 weeks in advance) in the area where you plan to plant repair roses. Dolomite flour or crushed chalk is very suitable for this (at the rate of 2 kg per 5 sq. M of the rose garden).
Landing. When digging planting pits, remove all parent soil and fill the pits with an artificial soil mixture made up of rotted manure (or compost), leaf soil, top fertile layer and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1.
Dig holes with a depth and diameter of 70 cm. Leave the distance between them 70 - 80 cm. At the bottom of each hole, lay drainage from fine expanded clay, broken brick or rubble (preferably limestone).
Drive a 1.5 m planting stake into the center of each hole.After planting, tie the seedling to it with a soft rope or scraps of natural fabric. Since the bushes can grow wide and sprawling over the summer, pull them together a little in November so that they do not break under the weight of snow or strong winds.
When planting in each hole, be sure to add 3 tbsp. l double superphosphate, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of potassium magnesium and half a bucket of wood ash.
Immediately after planting, water the young bushes well (at least 30 liters under each), and then mulch the soil under the plantings with straw or hay in a layer of 6 - 7 cm. Such mulching will help you retain moisture in the soil and will prevent weeds from growing on your rose plantation.
Watering. Repaired roses are water-loving plants. For normal growth and development, they need a lot of water (at least 40 liters for each bush). But still adjust the irrigation rate depending on the weather. Water twice a week in cooler weather. In the heat - every other day (and sometimes - every day!).
After each watering, thoroughly loosen the soil under the roses and mulch it with straw in a layer of 5 - 6 cm.
Fertilizer . Fertilizing for remontant roses is the most important factor affecting their normal growth and development.
Can you imagine how much effort a plant needs to spend in order to provide two full blooms in one season, and even with such huge powerful flowers?
Therefore, pay special attention to fertilizing repair roses.
Feed them the first time right after the snow melts. Use a urea solution for this (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of warm water at the rate of 2 buckets for one bush).
Perform the second feeding at the beginning of the first flowering - as soon as the buds appear (3 teaspoons of calcium nitrate in a bucket of warm water under one bush).
The third time - before re-flowering - give the remontant roses a solution of mullein at a concentration of 1:10 (one bucket for one plant).
In the middle (end, depending on your climate) September, after the end of flowering, give the remontant roses some kind of ready-made mineral complex for the autumn feeding of roses.
Pruning. Repair roses do not require heavy pruning or special shaping. In early spring, shorten the longest shoots to 12 to 14 buds. Then flowering in the current year will be abundant and very lush.
And basically, for remontant roses, only sanitary pruning is relevant: removal of old (over 5 years old), faded, growing inside the bush, frozen and dried branches.
This operation is best done in late March - early April.
Preparing for the winter. The trunk circles of remontant roses for the winter need to be covered in case of severe frosts and snowless winters.
At the end of October - beginning of November (according to the weather), cover the stem circles of rose bushes with dry leaves with a layer of 50 - 55 cm. After the onset of stable freezing temperatures, lay a double layer of spruce branches on the leaves with "needles up" (from mice and voles), and cover everything dense agrofibre type "Agrospan", well fixing its ends around the perimeter, so that the cold wind does not fall to the roots.
With such a shelter, your roses will live well until spring. If the winter is very cold, cover the entire bush with one layer of agrofibre and secure it at the bottom.
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